I wanted a repair stand that would allow me to easily work on my bikes. I would have loved to own a Park Tool repair stand, but I couldn’t justify the cost. I search the net, and found I could hang my bike from the ceiling with ropes. I tried it, it sucked. The bike was swinging all over the place, and would tilt if I removed a wheel. I found some other plans. I didn’t like most of them. But I found a couple that showed a clamp made from PVC. (The first plans I found. Here are the second.) I liked the clamp. But I didn’t want my stand mounted to a bench, or a wall like the plans I found. So I borrowed the designs for the clamps, and built a floor stand. These are my plans. They could probably be modified to make a two bike stand. Simple make a larger base, and instead of using a 90 degree elbow, use a tee section, and build a clamp for the other side as well.
Clamp:
1 1/4″ plastic pipe T
2 hinges
1 retracting latch (I found it at Lowes)
Foam pipe insulation
8 screws (or pop rivets)
8 nuts (not needed with pop rivets)
Stand:
2 pieces 3/4 inch plywood 16″x24″
56″ 1 1/4″ plumbing pipe (threaded both ends)
10″ 1 1/4″ plumbing pipe (threaded one end)
1-1/4″ black iron flange
1-1/4″ black iron 90 degree elbow
4 screws
4 washers
4 nuts
6-8 wood screws about 1 1/4 inches long.
1) Cut two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood to 24″ by 16″. Glue these together to form a 1 1/2″ thick base. Also screw in some 1 1/4″ flat head screws through the bottom (use about 6 or 8 screws evenly spaced) to hold the two pieces securely together.
2) The column will be made from a 1 1/4″ pipe about 56″ long (threaded at both ends), which will be mounted to the base using a flange. The flange should be located about 1/2″ from one of the 16″ ends, and centered. Mark where the bolt holes should be, and then drill a 1/4″ hole for each bolt. On the underside of the base, you will want to widen and deepen the bolt holes so that the washers, and nuts will be inset. Now mount the flange to the topside of the base using the 1/4″ bolts, washers and nuts.
3) Screw the pipe into the flange.
4) Screw the 90 degree elbow onto the top of the upright column.
5) Screw the 10 inch piece of pipe into the elbow piece so that it hangs out over the base.
Time to build the clamp!
6) Cut the PVC T section like in the picture below. I used a miter saw, but a band saw, or other type of saw will work too.
7) Fit the pieces back together. Place the hinges across the seam on one side, and mark well the holes should be. Drill the holes.
Mount the hinges. I used a Dremel to cut off the excess screw length.
9) Place the latch across the seam on the opposite side from the hinges. Mark, and drill the holes.
10) Mount the latch.
11) Shove clamp onto floor stand arm.
12) Cut a piece of foam pipe insulation to pad the inside of the clamp.
The clamp would allow the bike to tilt if it got out of balance. I cut a notch in the tee-fitting where it slid of the iron pipe. I then put a hose clamp around it. The idea is that I can fix it in place, but I can still adjust it to different angles. It still allows the bike to tilt if it gets way out of balance. But it did improve. I suppose the clamp could be permently attached to the pipe. Then maybe at the other end the “arm” pipe, I could have that rotate in the 90 degree elbow. I could drill a hole in the elbow, and tap it, and have a locking screw. Wow! I like that idea!




Great plan. I built one the other day and it works like a charm. When I build mine, I made a couple of modifications. First, instead of using a wood base, I made a metal base. The way I made the base was by getting a T, two more elbows and two pieces of 24″ pipe. I had the guy at home depot cut the 24″ pipe in half and re-thread two of the pieces. I attached the T to the base of the post and then attached the 12″ pieces that had threads on both ends. I attached the remaining elbows to those pieces and attached the remaining 12″ long pipes to the elbows. As a result, I have legs instead of a wooden base. Figured it might be a bit better for using in the driveway.
The other modification was on the clamp. To lock the clamp in place, I drilled through the clamp and pipe and then used a bolt to lock things in place. Also, I drilled the clamp in two places so that I could rotate the unit 90 degrees to hold the seat post of my wife’s bike.
One last thing, including having the guy at home depot cut and rethread the pipes, and 14% tax it cost me $58 Canadian ($52 USD) for the complete unit.
Comment by Jeremy — June 19, 2007 @ 11:56 am
Hi! Great plan.
I am surprised though that I see nobody in this large internet to try using the bicycle rack of the car (I am thinking the SUV kind with horns here not the ones attached to trunk) as support. That is a pretty sturdy piece of metal that needs just the clamp to be attached somehow.
Does anybody see any drawback to that(other than having the proper rack or even tha rack itself)?
I thought I can get a clam to buy and adapt but I see none so I will start looking in the plan here for that.
Thanks
Comment by Gabriel — September 19, 2007 @ 2:16 pm
Gabriel, one drawback would be the cost of the SUV style rack itself. Not sure how sturdy it would while you are trying to work on the bike. There is another kind of SUV style rack that has a clamp. That kind might work better than the kind with the horns.
Comment by Rob — September 19, 2007 @ 4:56 pm
I am a researcher for Nelson Education Ltd. in Toronto, Canada. I am working on a Grade 8 Science and Technology textbook and we would like to use the picture of your bike repair stand. Please get back to me by email to discuss.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Comment by Lynn McLeod — January 10, 2008 @ 3:33 pm
I finally got around to building this a few weeks back. I ended up using 2″ wide pipe, as I wanted to be able to work on my 29er mountain bike, which has a large diameter top tube. The larger PVC T helps get around the large bike, and the larger and heavier 2″ pipes add a nice bit of heft.
All in all, your design works great. Thanks for seeing my craigslist request and e-mailing me a few months back!
Comment by Mike Gillman — April 8, 2008 @ 9:17 pm