I wanted a repair stand that would allow me to easily work on my bikes. I would have loved to own a Park Tool repair stand, but I couldn’t justify the cost. I search the net, and found I could hang my bike from the ceiling with ropes. I tried it, it sucked. The bike was swinging all over the place, and would tilt if I removed a wheel. I found some other plans. I didn’t like most of them. But I found a couple that showed a clamp made from PVC. (The first plans I found. Here are the second.) I liked the clamp. But I didn’t want my stand mounted to a bench, or a wall like the plans I found. So I borrowed the designs for the clamps, and built a floor stand. These are my plans. They could probably be modified to make a two bike stand. Simple make a larger base, and instead of using a 90 degree elbow, use a tee section, and build a clamp for the other side as well.
Clamp:
1 1/4″ plastic pipe T
2 hinges
1 retracting latch (I found it at Lowes)
Foam pipe insulation
8 screws (or pop rivets)
8 nuts (not needed with pop rivets)
Stand:
2 pieces 3/4 inch plywood 16″x24″
56″ 1 1/4″ plumbing pipe (threaded both ends)
10″ 1 1/4″ plumbing pipe (threaded one end)
1-1/4″ black iron flange
1-1/4″ black iron 90 degree elbow
4 screws
4 washers
4 nuts
6-8 wood screws about 1 1/4 inches long.
1) Cut two pieces of 3/4 inch plywood to 24″ by 16″. Glue these together to form a 1 1/2″ thick base. Also screw in some 1 1/4″ flat head screws through the bottom (use about 6 or 8 screws evenly spaced) to hold the two pieces securely together.
2) The column will be made from a 1 1/4″ pipe about 56″ long (threaded at both ends), which will be mounted to the base using a flange. The flange should be located about 1/2″ from one of the 16″ ends, and centered. Mark where the bolt holes should be, and then drill a 1/4″ hole for each bolt. On the underside of the base, you will want to widen and deepen the bolt holes so that the washers, and nuts will be inset. Now mount the flange to the topside of the base using the 1/4″ bolts, washers and nuts.
3) Screw the pipe into the flange.
4) Screw the 90 degree elbow onto the top of the upright column.
5) Screw the 10 inch piece of pipe into the elbow piece so that it hangs out over the base.
Time to build the clamp!
6) Cut the PVC T section like in the picture below. I used a miter saw, but a band saw, or other type of saw will work too.
7) Fit the pieces back together. Place the hinges across the seam on one side, and mark well the holes should be. Drill the holes.
Mount the hinges. I used a Dremel to cut off the excess screw length.
9) Place the latch across the seam on the opposite side from the hinges. Mark, and drill the holes.
10) Mount the latch.
11) Shove clamp onto floor stand arm.
12) Cut a piece of foam pipe insulation to pad the inside of the clamp.
The clamp would allow the bike to tilt if it got out of balance. I cut a notch in the tee-fitting where it slid of the iron pipe. I then put a hose clamp around it. The idea is that I can fix it in place, but I can still adjust it to different angles. It still allows the bike to tilt if it gets way out of balance. But it did improve. I suppose the clamp could be permently attached to the pipe. Then maybe at the other end the “arm” pipe, I could have that rotate in the 90 degree elbow. I could drill a hole in the elbow, and tap it, and have a locking screw. Wow! I like that idea!




Great plan. I built one the other day and it works like a charm. When I build mine, I made a couple of modifications. First, instead of using a wood base, I made a metal base. The way I made the base was by getting a T, two more elbows and two pieces of 24″ pipe. I had the guy at home depot cut the 24″ pipe in half and re-thread two of the pieces. I attached the T to the base of the post and then attached the 12″ pieces that had threads on both ends. I attached the remaining elbows to those pieces and attached the remaining 12″ long pipes to the elbows. As a result, I have legs instead of a wooden base. Figured it might be a bit better for using in the driveway.
The other modification was on the clamp. To lock the clamp in place, I drilled through the clamp and pipe and then used a bolt to lock things in place. Also, I drilled the clamp in two places so that I could rotate the unit 90 degrees to hold the seat post of my wife’s bike.
One last thing, including having the guy at home depot cut and rethread the pipes, and 14% tax it cost me $58 Canadian ($52 USD) for the complete unit.
Comment by Jeremy — June 19, 2007 @ 11:56 am
Hi! Great plan.
I am surprised though that I see nobody in this large internet to try using the bicycle rack of the car (I am thinking the SUV kind with horns here not the ones attached to trunk) as support. That is a pretty sturdy piece of metal that needs just the clamp to be attached somehow.
Does anybody see any drawback to that(other than having the proper rack or even tha rack itself)?
I thought I can get a clam to buy and adapt but I see none so I will start looking in the plan here for that.
Thanks
Comment by Gabriel — September 19, 2007 @ 2:16 pm
Gabriel, one drawback would be the cost of the SUV style rack itself. Not sure how sturdy it would while you are trying to work on the bike. There is another kind of SUV style rack that has a clamp. That kind might work better than the kind with the horns.
Comment by Rob — September 19, 2007 @ 4:56 pm
I am a researcher for Nelson Education Ltd. in Toronto, Canada. I am working on a Grade 8 Science and Technology textbook and we would like to use the picture of your bike repair stand. Please get back to me by email to discuss.
Look forward to hearing from you.
Comment by Lynn McLeod — January 10, 2008 @ 3:33 pm
I finally got around to building this a few weeks back. I ended up using 2″ wide pipe, as I wanted to be able to work on my 29er mountain bike, which has a large diameter top tube. The larger PVC T helps get around the large bike, and the larger and heavier 2″ pipes add a nice bit of heft.
All in all, your design works great. Thanks for seeing my craigslist request and e-mailing me a few months back!
Comment by Mike Gillman — April 8, 2008 @ 9:17 pm
Wow-this TEE-clamp is the solution to a puzzle I started today while on a parallel course. (Couldn’t come up with a closure mechanism). My idea was to make a bench stand, but the wonderful simplicity of the pipe-and-board base cannot be improved. One difference in my approach: to adjust the tilt of the clamp, I may try a common screwed union which would allow 360° of motion with only a pipe wrench to tighten. To assure that the pipe fittings would not turn, I may drill small holes for roll pins (that can be drifted out later). Thanks for the inspiration.
Comment by Buzzy — February 24, 2009 @ 8:10 pm
I picked up a park tool folding unit for ~$150. It quickly folds and can be put in my trunk.
My concern with making my own is that I’d design something that failed while working on it and/or damaged my bike. Maybe with an MTB it wouldn’t do as much damage but on my road bike I don’t want it to fall 3 feet onto the fork.
Comment by rob — May 23, 2009 @ 10:37 am
Looks great, lately, I’ve been using my truck’s 2″ reciever bike rack to build bikes. When I use it for maintenance or builds, I only have one bike on at a time, that give me enough room. I’m going to build one like you have shown here. It’ll be much better when I can work on a bike in doors and not outside behind my truck.
Comment by Hardwarz — June 8, 2009 @ 3:18 pm
Very helpfull
Comment by Andy Mendez — August 19, 2009 @ 11:02 pm
Very nice design. I also built my own stand for the same reason, but was not satisfied with my clamping design. I found some Bosch extruded aluminum that worked well for the main frame, but only had horizontal clamping which needed refined. I think I’ll incorporate your clamp design into mine and that will make mine acceptable. If I has seen this before buying the bosch, I would have used the pipe. Thanks for sharing. Best regards, Doug
Comment by Doug Toms — December 30, 2009 @ 8:36 am
I’m with rob – been doing work with the bike on the bike rack behind my truck. Am going to build one like this with a wood base, wood post, and utilize one of the fold up racks on my garage wall to hold the bike
Comment by Richard — January 15, 2010 @ 2:13 pm
Built my own today. Cost = $0.
http://www.facebook.com/photo.php?pid=3222249&l=e68347df5a&id=511763426
Comment by Richard — January 16, 2010 @ 3:32 pm
I tried to use the car bike rack for repairs but I found that I could not keep up. And when I could, it was hard to hold the wrenches steady and run at the same time.
Comment by James — June 25, 2010 @ 2:11 pm
Nice design,I may try my self.
I’ve been using a Parks PS-10 for 6 years now and It is starting to wear out.I don’t feel like spending another $180.00 for a new one.Good Luck with it.
Comment by Joe Brown — September 29, 2010 @ 7:45 am
Just curious, I’ve starting building this and was wondering how you attach the iron pipe to the PVC T clamp. It appears he might have used a clamp. If anyone could get back to me on this I’d appreciate it… Thanks in advance.
Comment by Brian — November 16, 2010 @ 7:13 pm
I just cut a notch in the pcv pipe and used a hose clamp to allow it to clamp onto the iron pipe. You can see it in the last couple photos.
Comment by Rob — November 16, 2010 @ 10:33 pm
Great idea! the only modifications that I made to the plan were that I used 1″ pipe, pipe base and set the base pipes at 45 degrees to get them out of the way. Not a big change but I like it better. Thanks for the Idea
Comment by Don — March 6, 2011 @ 12:03 pm
Bike repair cheap man stand…
I just wanted to share my cheap man stand I use to adjust derailleur on the bike. It needs 2 chars and a post. I takes 15 seconds to set up. I keeps my bike 10cm from the ground and works fine for me. No need for hooks on a ceiling and ropes (which sea…
Trackback by Persistent Inappeasable Mind — July 20, 2011 @ 6:14 pm
i seall dig this your clamp works well but i was not sold on the base. so i took an old craftsman Twin Lamp Halogen Floodlight base removed the top and made two clamps one with a 1/4 20 bolt to atatch to the stand holding a horozontal 18 inch pvc pipe schedule 80 and the other for the bike. thus making the stand fully articulating. i have bin in the custom mettal fab industry for some time now and not much impresses me anymore but this clamp. its a good idea. i will have some pictures to post of an aluminum version soon
Comment by steve — August 5, 2011 @ 12:19 am
great plan for a stand. I desperately need one t work so I’m going to do something simila
Comment by Jess — September 17, 2011 @ 12:42 am
great plan for a stand. I desperately need one at work so I’m going to do something similar but the bottom support won’t be so necesarry as I will use a hole saw to fit it through our shop bench. Then it will split into two directions at the top so I can have two tee’s at the top horizontal bar. One smaller tee cut in half for speed bikes, and one larger tee cut in half for mountain bikes. The trick will be getting two different sized tees on the same bar. Will need a converter/adaptor type thing.
Comment by Jess — September 17, 2011 @ 12:46 am
Jess, if you are working in a regular shop, invest in a Park Tools stand. I would love one, but can’t really justify the cost for the occasional work I do on bikes. But if I had a regular shop, I would get a Park Tools stand. Definately!
Comment by Rob — September 17, 2011 @ 9:20 am