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Even when I saw the photos of the the Trek 1000 on eBay, I knew the handlebars would need to be retaped. And after I won the auction, a got the bike, they were then I thought. I removed the tape a couple weeks ago, and bought some new tape. First, I bought some thicker vibration reduction tape, but decided that wasn’t what I wanted, so I returned it, and got the thinner regular stuff. It only cost $10 for tape with cork imbedded into it. I didn’t have a chance to install the tape before I went to Las Vegas for the marathon. But I finally had some time to do it last night.
First, I moved where the cables for the aero brakes were routed. I moved them more to UNDER the front side of the bars, and taped them into place with electrical tape.
There were a couple options of how to install the tape. From the stem down to the bar ends, or from the bar ends up towards the stem. From the bar ends up gives the benefit of the tape edges being less likely to roll up from your hands being on the bars. But I wanted to have my handlebars taped in a professional way. So I went to the local bike store and looked at how the new Treks had their bars wrapped. They had their handlebars wrapped from the bar ends up. So that is what I chose to do.
I cut a small 3 1/2 inch piece from the end of the tape roll to use on the brack levers. The old tape was already removed, so I started by wrapping the tape around the bar end with the hanging over the end. The tape hanging over will be shoved into the bar, and held in place with the metal plug. For the direction that I wrapped the tape: looking at the back side of the bars, I wrapped the right side in a counter-clockwise direction, and the left side in a clockwise direction. I stretched the tape as I wrapped it around the bars.
I wrapped upwards.
Wrapping around the aero brake levers was tricky. I used the short portion of tape to cover the brake lever mount bracket. I tried to wrap and make it look like some pictures I found.
When I go to to the top, I used a knife to cut around the tape where the tape would end. I backed off the tape a little, then cut it with scissors using the knife cuts as a guide. Then I rewrapped the tape, and then wrapped electrical tape around the end, to hold it in place.

When I bought the Trek 700, I hadn’t realized the front forks were bent back as if the previous owner had collided with something at sometime. The local bike shop said new forks would cost $30 for high tensile steel, or $40 for chrome moly. But I ended up buy a suitable pair of forks off of ebay. They came off of a Bianchi. They were close enough in size to work. They were also designed for 700c wheels, and cantilever brakes. The color of the forks is bright red, opposed the the color of the Trek which is a dark green.
First, the steerer was about 0.25 inches longer than the one from the Trek 700. So I cut it off with a hack saw, and then smoothed the cut down with a metal file. Then I washed the forks in hot water and dishwashing soap. Once it was clean, and dry, I covered the steerer threads and the posts where the brakes attach, and where the crown sits with masking tape. I hung the forks from the ceiling with an old coat hanger. I then cleaned the forks again with paint thinner/mineral spirits. I dried them off with clean rags. Then I spray painted the forks. I used some Rust-Oleum Hunter Green paint which is the closest color I could find. It is a little lighter colored than the bike, but close. I started by painting the the hardest to reach areas. Once I got these painted, then I moved on to the rest of the easier the paint areas. I used light strokes for 10″ away. When I thought I had the forks covered, I used a work light to take a closer look. I noticed a few areas where the red paint was still slight visible. So I went over those areas again. They should be ready to mount tomorrow night.




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