I have learned that I can’t just buy a pair of aero brake levers for my Trek 700 hybrid/cyclocross conversion. Apparently the v-brakes require levers that pull more cable. And that it I put regular road bike levers. Regular road bike levers will work for traditional cantilever brakes, but not for direct pull v-brakes.
So I have several options.
I could replace the v-brakes with traditional cantilever brakes. I already have a set of them on the Specialized Crossroads that I bought for parts. But the Trek 700 is lacking the little part holds the cable housing near the seatpost.
I could get a little device called a travel agent. The little piece fits onto the v-brake and amplifies the amount of cable pulled. But the drawbacks are more moving parts, and the chance of cable breakage is increased with a travel agent.
The thrid option is to buy a pair of aero brake levers especially designed for v-brakes. So far that only model of aero brake levers I have found that are designed for v-brake is the 287-v made by Dia Compe. These levers cost around $50-60 though.
The thrid option seems like the simplest solution. I will keep an eye out on ebay to see if I can find a deal on them.
I have been watching Craigslist for bikes. I have wanted to get a road bike, with an eye towards a Trek. I have also been watching eBay as well. Besides wanting a road bike, I also wanted parts for my Trek 700 hybrid/cyclocross conversion project. I need drop bars, brake levers, and friction shifters. I saw someone list a Schwinn Sports Tourer bike on Craigslist for $20. It was missing the front wheel. Heck, the local bike shop wanted to charge me $15 for a set of old steel drop style handlebars and brake levers that looked like they came off of a Free Spirit! I did a search, and found that the frame from the Sports Tourer bike had fillet brazed joints, and was desirable. I saw one guy had converted a Sports Tourer into a fixed gear racing bike. I figured I would buy the bike for $20, but wasn’t sure what I was going to do with it. I thought I could maybe restore it and use it as a road bike until I found a good deal on a Trek. Or I could use the drop bars, and part out the rest on eBay. Some of the Schwinn Sports Tourers seemed to be outfitted with Campagnolo components. Well plans cemented this morning as I bought an early 90’s Trek 1000 on eBay for a little over a $100 plus shipping. So that will be my road bike.
I went off at lunch to look at the bike. The front wheel was gone I knew. The rear wheel was a little wobbly, but might be able to be fixed. The frame look to be in decent condition. A little rust on scratches. There was one tiny dent (ding) on the top tube. The drop style handlebars looked usable. The stem is usable, but has the bolt head sticking up on top, and not recessed like the newer kind. The brake levers have those lazy man’s brake lever extensions. The shifters are mounted on the stem, so are not what I want. The components don’t appear to be Campagnolo. The rear derailleur said “Le Tour” or something like that. The bike is out in my car, but I will look closer at it when I get home tonight. I will do more research on the individual parts to figure out what I will do with it. But for $20, I think it was a good deal. Not sure what the frame will sell for on eBay, but it would make a great base for project bike.
The handle bars are aluminum which is cool. I will need to clean up the one side though. I looks like the handlebar tape caught fire and melt on. The stem is slightly smaller diameter than the stem already on my Trek 700. So I don’t think it will work. I am looking at getting aero brake levers instead of using the one from the Schwinn. I thin they will work with these handlebars. I know I have seen som handlebars that actually have a trough for the cable sit in. But I don’t think that is required.
I bought it on eBay for $103.61. The initial estimate for shipping was $60. I emailed the seller for an actual amount. I also emailed him a link to a page with step by step directions of how to box a bike.
Here is the eBay description of the bike:
The frame has some cosmetic nicks but, is a very sound. The frame is bonded aluminum with internal cable routing and the front fork is Chrome Molybdenum. SHIFTERS: Shimano 105 down tube; CRANK: Sakae 170s; CHAIN RINGS: 38 X 52; FREE WHEEL: Sach, 7 speed, 12 X 28; REAR DERAILLEUR: Shimano 105; FRONT DERAILLEUR: Suntour; BRAKES & BRAKE LEVERS: Stock; FRONT RIM: Campagnolo Strada Hardox; REAR RIM: Campagnolo Strada Hardrox; SEAT: Ritchey Logic; FRONT & REAR TIRES: New, semi knobby, 700 X 32.
The auction title said it was “vintage approximately 1992″. But looking at old Trek brochures, I figured out that it is probably a 1990 model because of the color. I will likely remove the knobby tires and replace them with road tires. But….the knobby tires will likely fit on the cyclocross bike I am building!!! The knobby tires that were on the Trek 700 looked pretty beat. Like maybe they were ridden on too much with low air pressure.
I am excited!!!
Check out my repair stand plans!
I wanted a repair stand so that I could more easily work on my bikes. I checked eBay, and from what I could, the best repair stands were made by Park Tools. But the Park Tools repair stands were expensive, and more than I wanted to pay. There were other repair stands on eBay beside the ones made by Park Tools, but they just didn’t look as sturdy. I searched the net for repair stand plans and found a few different one. The simplest was to put a couple eye-bolts in the ceiling, and suspend the bike by ropes. I tried this out in my garage, but it was cold, and will likely only get colder. And it just wasn’t sturdy. Also, when I removed the front wheel, the center of gravity shift, and the bike canted. And the ropes always seemed to be in the way.
None of the plans I found seemed to be exactly what I wanted. But I liked the clamp design that I found in a couple of them.
So I took that and with my own additions made a floor stand. The first try was too tall with the clamp being 64″ off the floor. The local sporting good store had a repair stand (Park Tools) set up. I went there and measure it with a tape measure. The height. They had the clamp set at 59.5″ So I took the pipe that is the main post for my stand, and had 5 inches removed, and rethreaded. Now the height is about perfect. And the stand is pretty sturdy. I had the bike clamped in it, and was seriously torqueing on it when I was trying to remove the cranks and bottom bracket.
I didn’t originally notice, but the forks on the Trek 700 were bent back. It looks the previous own had collided with something. My bike repair book says that I can take them to a bike shop to have them straightened. So I removed them, and took them to the local bike shop. The guy barely glanced at them, and said the forks are bent. I asked about getting them straightened, and he said that they don’t do that anymore due to liability. He looked up prices, and said that high tensile steel forks would cost $30, and chrome moly forks would cost $40. Ouch! This bike is costing more and more money to fix!
The fork is not a mountain bike fork, or a road bike fork which would be easier to find. I need a fork designed for a hybrid or a cyclocross bike. I thought maybe I could use the fork from the Specialized Crossroads bike that I bought for parts, but the steerer is too short. I found a fork on eBay, and bought it. It came from a Bianchi and cost $24 including shipping. I paid via paypal, and emailed that guy that I was trusting his description of being in good condition, and that it it was bent or cracked, then it was of no use to me. So hopefully the thing will work. If not, I will head back to the local bike shop and order one.